Hey Reader,

The Paris Catacombs were entirely my kids' idea. I had been to Paris five times and avoided them every single trip. Six million skeletons in a tunnel underground with no easy exit is not exactly my idea of a good afternoon.

But my boys had been researching it for months, and eventually I ran out of ways to say no.

What I did not know going in: the Catacombs had only reopened three days before our visit, after a five-month closure for a full renovation. New lighting, a completely redesigned route, a new audio guide narrated in the voice of the 19th-century founder. We were among the first visitors to see it.

My 9-year-old, who is hard to engage at most historical sites, was locked in from start to finish. My husband and I kept making eyes at each other like, are you seeing this right now.

It was one of the best things we did on the entire trip. I'm still a little annoyed the kids were right.

The one thing you need to know if you go: tickets sell out fast. They only release slots seven days at a time. In the post I have a link to the best way to book in advance. Do not skip this or you will be the family standing outside watching everyone else walk in.

There is also something else in the post that I keep getting asked about, which is what we did instead of Disneyland Paris.

We've been to Disneyland Paris twice. It is my least favorite Disney park, full stop. After two visits I decided we needed a completely different kind of day trip and found Provins, a UNESCO medieval city about an hour and fifteen minutes from Paris by train.

Wisteria growing up 800-year-old stone walls. A knights show that is genuinely better than Medieval Times (I was skeptical too). And a detail almost nobody knows: your Paris metro pass covers the regional train out there. You just add five euros per person to your card. No separate tickets.

My kids understood more about medieval history from walking around for a few hours than from anything I have tried to teach them at home, and that felt like a win.

The full seven-day itinerary is on the blog now, including every restaurant that's worth going back to, everything to book before you leave home, and what traveling Paris with ADHD kids actually looks like after we've done it three times.

​Read the full Paris itinerary here​

If Paris is on your list at any point, even years from now, this one is worth saving.

Marcie